Well known for his acquired taste for offwidth crack routes, tom consistently sets himself the highest standards and the hardest lines. The ability to climb cracks is at the core of a climbers craft. The bolts tend to be much farther apart than sport climbs. Century crack offwidth climbing trad utah white rim 5. Crack climbing is a highly technical form of movement in which climbers position their hands, feet, and even their entire body in cracks to make upward progress on rock. Two climbers send switzerlands longstanding gondo crack project 5. First published simultaneously in great britain and north america in 2020 by vertebrate publishing, sheffield, and mountaineers books, seattle. Most wedgeshaped nuts are curved in some way and many also feature a hollowed out mid section to reduce weight and allow placement in less uniformly tapered cracks. Tom has worked extremely hard over the last two years in a cellar in sheffield honing his crack climbing skills. Wild country crack school is a series of six short videos designed to utilise the skills and knowledge of wild country climbers tom randall and pete whittaker to give an introduction to basics. Hes also a renowned climbing coach and founder of lattice training.
Wild country crack school is a series of six short videos designed to utilise the skills and knowledge of wild country climbers tom randall. The crucifix project is tom randall and pete whittakers nextlevel roof crack out in canyonlands, utah, that theyve spent several trips to the area piecing together. The wide boyz, peak district climbers pete whittaker and tom randall, head to. In 2011 he teamed up with pete whittaker to take on the worlds hardest offwidth crack century crack, which is documented in the film wide boyz from hotaches. Tom, along with pete whittaker are best known as the wide boyz. Heroes of the mountains rock climbing, climbing, climbers. Passive protection the simplest type of climbing protection. Dan osman, one of the greatest free solo climbers, flagging on a crack in yosemite. In 2009, i had the idea that i could become one of the worlds best offwidth climbers just by building and training on wide crack replicas in my. Traditional bolted face climbing means the bolts were placed on lead andor with hand drills.
Posts about crack climbing written by tomrandallclimbing. The line took the pair over two hours each to climb and, due to its length, required the use of two ropes for the climb and an additional abseil and recovery rope to get back to the belay. They returned later and sent it placing gear on lead. I think its the style of the movement and the discomfort which requires people to be quite flexible in personality. Climbers often suggest that crack climbing isnt about strength. So with brutal training regime and a partner in crime in tom randall to work the route with, pete dediated his climbing trips to making the 3rd or possibly 4th ascent of recovery drink 5.
In these more advanced sessions tom and pete look at techniques for when the crack doesnt do what you want it to when its too wide, too thin or nonexistent. It made a lot more sense being able to apply it as it was explained. Wild country crack school episode 1 finger cracks with the. Since then, they have been on a mission to bring the art and enjoyment of crack climbing into the indoor world of modern climbing gyms.
Danny parker has made the third ascent of the offwidth called century crack 5. Crack climbing is an essential skill for any climber out there, randall says in the first video. Tom randalls pinky pullup crack climbing training epictv climbing daily, ep. Worst idea of the century crack rock climbing guides. Crack school with tom randall and pete whittaker video series. I tried to continue up the crack but because hardly practiced hand jams at all i didnt trust my hand jam so i came down. Cruising the perfect hand crack is a joyous feeling. Looking to improve your finger crack climbing skills. In free climbing only natural terrain formations are used for upward progress. Here is a great article from that gives pointers on how to use your hands and feet when the crack goes from hand to finger size. Local climbing ethics mean metal protection and chalk are out so pete and tom have. Crack climbing by pete whittaker provides a single point of reference for all crack climbing techniques, regardless of the grade you climb. He and his climbing partner peter whittaker from great britain have overtaken american offwidth specialists in the true sense of the word.
Crack adventures in eastern europe with pete whittaker and tom. Alison and myself had a great time and laughed trying to apply it all in pembroke that afternoon and sunday. From making fun of top ropers and overly cautious trad climbers to a climber literally shitting his pants, even nonclimbers will appreciate how funny these rock climbing videos are. Pete whittaker left and tom randall right training for century crack in toms cellar in sheffield, england. Interview with british rock climber pete whittaker about his new book crack climbing mastering the skills and techniques. Tom randall knows this all too well and this footage in his cellar documents the work done prior to freeing century crack along with with pete whittaker. Watch as they take on bold climbs, sometimes above no more protection than knotted slings and ropes jammed into cracks. Wild country crack school is a series of eight short videos designed to utilise the skills and knowledge of our climbers tom randall and pete whittaker its the wide boyz again. Traditional or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers place all gear required to protect against falls, and remove it when a pitch is complete. Tom is a keen trad climber and has established many first ascents all over the world, mostly involving some kind of crack climbing.
Wideboys crack adventures in eastern europe with pete. The monster roof crack was first climbed by wide boyz tom randall and pete whittaker in 2011 with the gear in place. You want your body to give out before your skin gives out, so protect. After making the fourth and fifth ascents of the route in trad style, tom randall and pete whittaker resolved to remove the bolts, returning the route to its original condition. Two brave brits have become the first to complete a tough climb up a 160foot fissure in utahs canyonlands. Part of an offwidthroof circuit at lizards mouth email me if you are interested, this line suffers through a. The idea behind free climbing is a pure connection between human movement and unchanging terrain. Protection can be thrown in whenever and on those easy big climbs you can get the fullmountain adventure at a fraction of the cost, left skipping back to. Tom randall is a modern day institution in the world of british climbing. For tom, climbing is allconsuming, but this hasnt always been the case. Have an experienced friend inspect your placements and correct any faults before you take your mistakes up a route with you. Tom randall and pete whittaker take on czech sandstone and its infamous knot protection. Inspect your wires for kinks or abrasions and inspect the.
You wedge it into a crack so that if a load is applied it tightens deeper into the rock. I think, in terms of crack climbing, then im probably most proud of century crack still, even though it might not be the hardest thing ive done mainly because of the journey and the process that i went through with pete to go from being pretty average about discipline to being quite good. Yes, we have a full schedule and it is hard work but just get on with doing the things you need to, youll do the action and youll stop complaining. Pete is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers in the world, having made dozens of cuttingedge first ascents and hard repeats, including the first ascent of century crack 5. But when it narrows to fingers, the real battle beginseven handcrack wizards might take the ride. For example, a trad bolted route may have bolts from. Crack climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber follows a crack in the rock and. December 7, 20 by gregdotdavis in fitness, photography. In 20, it was nico favresse who made the first ascent of the line, followed by daniel jung of germany, who bagged the second ascent in 2018.
In traditional climbing, the climber places protective gear while ascending the route, rather than installing permanent fixtures beforehand. Whittaker and his climber partner tom randall trained for two years for the offwidth crack, meaning the gap was too wide for fistjamming techniques and. The wide boyz, peak district climbers pete whittaker and tom randall, head to poland and the czech republic to test their skills on the regions beautiful and impressive sandstone towers. He had two broken ribs at the time from bmx riding while filming metallicas masters of stone video that morning. For those of you who a are bored, b nursing a grudge against tom randall and peter whittaker, or c like crack climbing, then this ahem gem is for you.
Beta climbing designs, the uk importer for sterling ropes, have arranged for us to interview their team climber tom randall. Tom bagged the second ascent, then his partner and fellow wideboy pete whittaker decided that. The idea of a wide boyz business grew from the crack climbing courses that tom and pete ran at indoor walls to pass on their crack climbing knowledge. So sit back and enjoy our list of the 12 funniest rock climbing videos. On his ascent, parker likewise placed his own protection, climbing with a no. He was game for pretty much whatever, which is somewhat key when crack climbing or climbing with me. In 2011, tom randall and pete whittaker completed the first free ascent of century crack. In october 2016, pete whittaker and tom randall made the first ascent of millennium arch 5. The end of the year is finally closing in and with a few days off over the christmas break, i have been spending a bit of time reflecting on what. Occupying a majestic position above the derwent valley is a playground that is home to some of the peak districts finest lines. Crack climbing mastering the skills and techniques with pete.
Sam whittaker decided it wasnt nasty enough and climbed the wall to the right which you can see here, to make appointment with death, e9 6c. His partnership with pete whittaker as one half of the wideboyz has seen him establish and repeat many of the worlds hardest cracks. You can spend a lot of time doing the complaining about how busy things are. If you have basic crack climbing technique but are ready to step it up to the next level, its time to learn how to climb a finger crack. Following the ascent of the infamous offwidth line, they were introduced to a number of other projects in the area by local developer rob pizem. In 2011, the wide boyzbritish offwidth aficionados tom randall and pete whittakermade the first ascent of century crack, a 5. This is part of a series of videos by the tom randall and pete whittaker who run the fun and useful crack climbing masterclasses throughout the country on the basics of crack climbing. A good sense of humor about rock climbing is healthy. Watch tommy caldwell climbing europes hardest offwidth thai boxing e7 6c5. Get the latest extreme sports videos on the epictv facebook page.
About tom randall training for climbing trainingbeta. Although curbar has a bit of a reputation for tough grades is does. Tom randall on his crack climbing training from the rc uk. Watch tom randall and pete whittaker take on the bold sandstone towers of the czech republic, often with just knotted slings and ropes jammed into cracks for protection. Rock and mortar fireplaces can make good classrooms, especially on rainy days. Only in snow, ice, and mixed climbing are ice axes and crampons acceptable. Tom randall, a top crack climber from the united kingdom, had attempted the route multiple times since 2014 and came close to completing it as a trad lead without the bolts. What it lacks in protection and safety, it makes up for in greenness. Depot climbing sheffield with jim pope followed by. Hello tom, just a quick note to say thank you for your advice at the crack climbing thing you did down at boulders in cardiff. Two climbers send switzerlands longstanding gondo crack. Tom randall is a professional climber, entrepreneur and one of rock and ices new online contributing writers. The route was established by carlos citro logrono last year, and immediately became one of europes hardest crack lines.